Make It Soap!

Chocolate Peppermint Foot Butter

75 grams Cocoa Butter, Natural
25 grams Cire De Lanol emulsifier
15 grams stearic acid
20 grams glycerin
355 grams sterilized water
5 grams Peppermint Essential oil
5 grams Liquid Germall Plus

Weigh all your ingredients except the Germall Plus and Peppermint essential oil
together. Heat in the microwave until all the solid ingredients are melted and
before the water begins to boil. Blend with a stick blender to emulsify. Cool,
stirring occasionally. When cooled, add the Liquid Germall Plus and the
peppermint essential oil and stick blend in well. Fills eight 2 oz jars, or four
4 oz jars.

The peppermint essential oil is very powerful even at 5 grams. Combined with the
natural chocolate scent of the cocoa butter, this is a really fun chocolate
peppermint ‘tingly’ foot cream, great in the winter!

I am at the HSMG Soap Convention, and at 4:00 pm today I am diving a presentation on making a fun cold process soap project. I am using natural colorants, but you can easily do this with dyes, ultramarines, oxides, or micas.

Stay tuned, I will post photos of the soap project!

Just unmolded the first two test batches of soap made at the new soap factory in the warehouse!  We are preparing the visual guide for a class we are giving at the Handcrafted Soap Makers Guild in May. Only mistake: forgot to add the fragrance oil! Duh, (I could of had a V-8 moment for sure!). Got so busy making sure we got the photos at the right stage that we completely forgot to even bring the fragrance to the prep area. Hmm, that won’t happen again!

Preservatives Overview - PDF’s for helping you in determining which preservative to use for your formulations. Why Use Preservatives, Overview of Preservaties, Cosmocil CQ, Germaben II, Germaben II E, Germall Plus (Powder), GermallPlus (Liquid), Tinosan SDC, Suttocide A, Phenoxyethanol, Phenonip, Optiphen, Optiphen Plus, Optiphen ND, LiquaPar Optima, LiquaPar Oil, LiquaPar PE, Re-Cap on Preservatives.

Most soap makers are familiar with using lye (sodium hydroxide) to make soap. We often hear the “No Lye, No Soap” refrain, but long ago soap was indeed made with NO LYE, and it was indeed soap. I have compiled here some history on early soap making, and on the origins and use of sodium hydroxide in soap manufacturing. Rember, soapmaking is really just a chemical reaction of an ACID (oil) and an ALKALI (caustic).In the 1600’s the French king issued an edict that the popular regional soap, Marseilles soap, could only bear that name if it was produced in a very specific manner. Sodium carbonate was the alkali used for saponification then, and is still used in Marius Fabre French soaps today.

If a soap  maker wants to make soap without lye, it is possible, but not really as practical as using lye (sodium hydroxide). It can be done, but is a much more complicated and laborious process. Saponification using other alkali’s requires many more steps and ingredients to create the chemical reaction/catalyst than our method of just mixing a strong solution of lye (sodium hydroxide) & water into melted or fluid oils. Salt water rinses, long cooking periods (as many as 10 days), etc. are not really feasible for most of us, or even warranted anymore. The method of soap making that does not use sodium hydroxide is the ancient, dying art of true soap boiling. It was one of the true soap arts guarded by the medieval soap guilds. No clear European description of how soap was made has survived from the medieval period.

Lye is not a chemical that exists by itself. Prior to 1791 Sodium hydroxide did not exist in any recognizable form. Additionally, the storage capabilities for safe handling and storage of sodium hydroxide on a large manufacturing scale surely did not readily exist as we have today. Plastics and stainless steel were not available for storage protection of the highly reactive sodium hydroxide. But we know there was true soap being manufactured.  So how was this done and what was being used as the alkali catalyst?

First some history on sodium hydroxide, also known as ‘lye’ and NaOH.

Sodium hydroxide is produced in the chloralkali process, which is the electrolysis of an aqueous solution of sodium chloride (salt). It is a by-product from the production of chlorine, and often sea water is used as it is quite plentiful. Sodium hydroxide attracts and absorbs water from the environment & is highly reactive, producing often violent exothermic reactions. Until 1791 soap making alkali was commonly sodium carbonate and soda lime, then rinsed and washed and cooked with salt water baths. This laborious 10 day process had the effect of creating a strong alkali byproduct.

Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), also known as lye or caustic soda, is a caustic metallic base used in industry, mostly as a strong chemical base in the manufacture of paper, textiles, and detergents. Due to it’s high reactivity, it must be stored properly in air tight, non porous containers to prevent it from absorbing CO2 (carbon monoxide) and H2O (water). Since the ready availability of Sodium hydroxide, by the Leblanc process in 1791, it is the most financially feasible, and readily available alkali for soap making. An early soap method was recorded in Yemen (Arabia) The Secrets of Master Alexis of Piedmont, written about 1547. Arabia was making hard bar soap in the soap boiling method as early as the 8th century, and a document translated reads:

Description of Soap Making

Take two thirds from alkali (al-qily} and one third of un-slaked lime (nura dhakar). Break the lime into small pieces the size of faufal or chestnut. Take a mirkan large vessel} of pottery and cut an outlet (manzil) at its bottom. And seal this outlet tightly with a rag. Take bricks and break them into small pieces, not quite small, and pack them inside the middle of the mirkan. Place on the broken bricks a piece of khsaf. Throw on the khasafa the alkali and the un-slaked lime. And pour on them an amount of water equal to four or five times the submersion volume. The mirkan should be placed on a high position, and we place under the outlet another empty mirkan so that the liquid will flow into it. If there is no high place you will dig a cavity in the ground at a depth equal to that of the empty mirkan, and it is lowered down the cavity so that it is below the outlet. Leave it for one day and one night then open the outlet on the second day so that the filtered water of alkali and lime will pour into it. When all the liquid is emptied, return again and pour it above the alkali and lime and leave it for one day and one night. Open the outlet the next morning and empty the whole clear liquid. When the whole liquid ceases flowing divide it into two halves. Put one half aside. Pour [onto the remaining half] an equal amount of sesame oil (shiraj) and beat (agitate) the mixture strongly and repetitively with a wooden beater for one hour until it hardens and thickens. Leave it for the rest of the day and overnight if you are in a hurry, otherwise leave it for two or three days if you are not in a hurry because the longer it stays the better it ferments. Cool it down and put it in a copper cauldron and set under it a strong fire. Each time it thickens water it with the sharp water from the one half that was put aside as mentioned above. You will continue kindling the fire and watering with the sharp water until it becomes grainy and ripens. Continue beating (mixing) it so that it will not burn. Put it down and pour it into a mirkan (a large vessel) and beat it and water it little by little, then pour it again into the cauldron and place it on fire, let it be a strong fire, and whenever it tends to become dry, water it with the sharp water little by little while you are stirring so that it will not burn. Continue like this until the water is consumed and the soap is well cooked and its consistency becomes like that of the shoemakers glue, known as ashras. Make a milban (mould) from wood, similar to the milban of bricks, but larger. Spread a kham cloth {coarse cotton cloth) or a piece of khasf and place the milban (the mould) over it. Pour the soap into the milban. The purpose of the milban (the mould) is to prevent the soap from flowing until it thickens. Leave it for one night and one day until it solidifies. Then cut it with a knife as is usual. If you want the soap to be perfumed add to it, on the last cooking on fire, choice perfumes and saffron and whatever scents you like then pour it as above mentioned, if God wills.  (source: http://www.gabarin.com/ayh/Notes/Notes%205.htm updated to: http://www.history-science-technology.com/Notes/Notes%205.htm)

Info on Sodium Hydroxide
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide

A really cool science experiment using Sodium Carbonate
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen01/gen01966.htm

Ancient soap methods
http://www.answers.com/topic/soap

Marius Fabre soap caldroun/boiling method
http://www.marius-fabre.fr/siteen/summary.htm

Solvay method of Sodium carbonate production
http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/chemweek/Bicarb/SodiumBicarb.html

Chemical process of creating Sodium hydroxide
http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/chemweek/Cl2&NaOH/Cl2&NaOH.html

More soap history
http://members.tripod.com/~marieainsley/instruction/soap.htm

Unpublished Work Copyright 2002 - 2007 By Kelly J. Bloom, registered w/ Library of Congress, do not copy or reprint without permission.

FDA Soap Labeling Guidelines

And what if it’s “soap“? Soap is a category that needs special explanation. That’s because the regulatory definition of “soap” is different from the way in which people commonly use the word. Products that meet the definition of “soap” are exempt from the provisions of the FD&C Act because — even though Section 201(i)(1) of the act includes “articles…for cleansing” in the definition of a cosmetic — Section 201(i)(2) excludes soap from the definition of a cosmetic.

Be a Melt & Pour Soap Pro - Using Melt & Pour soap bases is fun and easy! You can create special soaps to give as gifts and have projects safe for even young children to participate in. Let’s get started!

1. MELT -  Melt your soap base using your microwave. Any microwave safe bowl will work, but our preferance has become a Pyrex mixing bowl because it has a natural pouring spout. If using your microwave, melt your base in short 1 minute intervals. You can also use a crock pot on the low setting, or a double boiler type pan on your stove top (put heat on med low).

2. COLOR & SCENT- Once your soap is melted you have a world of creativity at your finger tips! Select a colorant designed to be used with Melt & Pour soap bases to tint your soap. We do not suggest using Food Colors, as these dyes will “bleed” if you make two color or layered soaps. Non Bleeding pigments are best for Melt & Pour Soaps as the color stays ‘true’ and also stays ‘put’ (does not migrate) in your soap creation. Now add a fragrance oil to your soap mixture.  A good starting place is 1/4 oz of fragrance oil per 1 lb of Melt & Pour base. You can always add more if you like. You can also use essential oils instead of soap fragrance if you prefer. Open your spice cabinet and try adding small amounts of herbs or spices to your creations also! When you finished designing your soap creation just pour the still liquid soap mixture into a mold or container of choice. When your soap creation hardens, it will pop right out of your mold.

3.  CLEAN UP - Melt & Pour soap is Easy as 1 - 2 - 3! And because this is soap, clean up is a snap!

Oxides & ultramarine pigments are stable mineral colors that lend themselves beautifully to any soapmaking process. They are non-toxic, non-bleeding, and their colors do not change in the alkaline environment of CP soapmaking. Oxides and Ultramarines, do not fade in soap.

Recommended Use: Approved for use in Soap and Cosmetic uses, to include lips and eyes.

CP Soapmaking: Simply blend a small amount of pigment into either a small amount (few teaspoons) of hot water, warm base oils from your soap kettle, or glycerin. Mix well and add to your light traced soap until desired shade is reached. Each color will vary in how much may need to be used, based on intensity of color desired.

M&P Soapmaking: Simply blend a pinch of pigment into either a few teaspoons of glycerin or rubbing alcohol. The alcohol slurry can only be used with M&P soap, never with CP. Mix well and add to your melted soap base until it is the shade your desire. If using the alcohol as your slurry, don’t worry about the alcohol odor, it will evaporate very quickly.

Oxides, Neons, and Ultramarines are non morphing in alkaline environments. This means that you can use Oxides, Neons, Ultramarines, Chromium Green, & Hydrated Chromium Green in Cold Process soap without the colors changing.

You will find a fantastic selection of oxides and ultramarines at Southern Soapers, all tested for use in Cold Process, Hot Process, and Melt & Pour soapmaking methods.

Mica pigments are synthetic manufactured mineral colors that lend themselves beautifully to any soapmaking process. They are non-toxic, non-bleeding, and some of them do not change in the alkaline environment of CP soapmaking. Micas, do not fade in soap.  Approved for use in Soap and Cosmetic uses, to include lips and eyes. Contrary to popular belief, micas are not natural and have not been so since the 1950’s.

Recommended Use: Approved for use in Soap and Cosmetic uses, to include lips and eyes.

CP Soapmaking: Use in the same manner you would use any oxide or ultramarine. Each color will vary in how much may need to be used, based on intensity of color desired. This Mica does not change color in an alkaline environment. Oxides, Neons, and Ultramarines are non morphing in alkaline environments. This means that you can use Verdigris Gold Mica in Cold Process soap without the color changing.Use in the same manner you would use any oxide or ultramarine. Each color will vary in how much may need to be used, based on intensity of color desired. This Mica does not change color in an alkaline environment. Oxides, Neons, and Ultramarines are non morphing in alkaline environments. This means that you can use Verdigris Gold Mica in Cold Process soap without the color changing.

M&P Soapmaking: Simply blend a pinch of mica into either a few teaspoons of glycerin or rubbing alcohol. The alcohol slurry can only be used with M&P soap, never with CP. Mix well and add to your melted soap base until it is the shade your desire. If using the alcohol as your slurry, don’t worry about the alcohol odor, it will evaporate very quickly.

Many micas are non morphing in alkaline environments. This means that they do not change colors when used with Cold Process soap processes.

INCI: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, & Iron Oxide Fe2O3

First to simplify, “super fatting’ is the purposeful unbalancing of a chemical equation.  You normally would balance the lye solution (alkali) to equally match the acids in the oils you are using to a perfect 1:1 chemical balance. That would give you excellent laundry soap, but would not be very emollient to your skin, however.

The object of super fatting is to have your formulation of lye solution and oils set up to be oil heavy, meaning that there will be more oil molecules than lye molecules and the match up bonding will leave excess unused oil molecules free in your soap mixture/soap bars. This is where you get the extra emollient properties of your soap, or some… as the glycerin is a contributor too.  So essentially, super fatting is just making sure you leave a little extra oil free in your soap.  Basically.

There are two ways to do this.  Either one is absolutely fine, or if you set your calculations up right you can theoretically even do both together. It is purely personal choice on how you decide to “super fat”, just be sure and use a good calculator and/or SAP values when formulating so you can be precise.

Way 1:  Effective Lye Discount
This is where you do not add extra oils at the trace to create your “super fat’ effect. In building in an automatic ELD (Effective Lye Discount) you set up your calculator to create the lye discount you want… 5%, 6%, 7% are the most common values. Lower than 5% without adding additional fats/oils at trace can contribute to a harsher bar, and super fatting over 10% can lend toward the loose oils going rancid faster in time, or even contribute to DOS (Dreaded Orange Spots).  I recommend 6 to 7% to start with.

Anyway, most soaping calculators allow you to set the lye discount/Effective Lye Discount. You plug all your oils in the calculator to be mixed with the lye in the beginning.  The only value that changes the super fat/ELD value is the AMOUNT OF LYE USED. Less lye means the ELD increases to larger numbers (i.e., reducing lye by 1 oz may cause the ELD to go from 6% to 7%). Increasing the Lye lowers the ELD (i.e., increasing lye by 1 oz may cause the ELD to go from 6% to 5%).  You can manually adjust this by changing the lye value in your calculator until you have the % of super fat/ELD that you want your bar to have.

Way 2:  Super fat at Trace
This way you build your formulation up with a small amount of additional (2-5%) to be added at the mid to end of trace time. You set your formulation up with a much lower Effective Lye Discount, sometimes at zero.  Then you add those “extra” oils to the calculator that are to be added at trace, and increase that oils amount until you arrive at the super fat/ELD value you want your bar to end up at.  Using this way of super fatting though, you will use more lye in your formulating.

Follow along with this example of a four-oil recipe (and feel free to use it as a starter recipe):

All amounts are digital weights, not volume.

10 oz Olive Oil
10 oz Coconut Oil
10 oz Shortening
2 oz Sweet Almond Oil
11 oz Water
4.5 oz lye

Now here are examples of what happens to the lye when you add the almond oil with the other oils, and what happens when you add it at the end of trace:

4.5 oz Lye gives a 6% lye discount and in the final bar a 7.6% Effective Lye Discount, or super fat.

But if I do not add that 2 oz of Sweet Almond oil until the end of trace look what happens:

4.5 oz lye gives a 6% lye discount and in the final bar (with Sweet Almond added at end of trace, not with rest of oils) an 11.7% ELD (Effective Lye Discount), or serious SUPERFAT!  11.7 is terribly high. Many oils we use for super fatting have shorter shelf lives and by merit of that can go rancid much faster.  To pull the Effective Lye Discount DOWN a bit, so that the bar is not at 11.7% I must increase my lye value on the calculator!  I must use 4.6 oz of lye instead of 4.5 oz to get that 6% super fat ratio!

Man, I sure hope I have not confused you more now!

Unpublished Work Copyright 2002 - 2007 By Kelly J. Bloom, Registered w/ Library of Congress. Do not copy or reprint without permission.

STARTER Trinity formula

Olive 35%
Coconut or PKO (either will work) 25%
Palm or Soy Shortening (either) 40%

After getting the feel on trace times, bar hardness, lather, etc on that above formula (that is a good starter formula also), I would learn to start tweaking, to build other elements into the bar… TAKING NOTES each time you tweak the formula.

Tweak 1
Olive 30%
Coconut or PKO (either) 22%
Palm or Soy Shortening (either) 40%
Shea Butter 5%
Caster Oil 3%

On Tweak 1, you are adding a small amount of Shea for luxury and moisturization, and the castor oil is humectant and lather booster.

Tweak 2 (to reduce cost of Olive oil)
Olive 20%
Rice Bran (or canola, Safflower, Grapeseed, Hempseed, etc) 10%
Coconut or PKO (either) 22%
Palm or Soy Shortening (either) 40%
Shea Butter 5%
Castor Oil 3%

Do you see how you can take Tweaked Formula #2 and sub out different oils, more fancy oils like Macadamia, Grapeseed, Pumpkinseed, Sunflower, Safflower, etc for that 10% amount of Rice Bran oil? Shea Butter 5% can get swapped out for things like Mango Butter, Cocoa Butter, Aloe Butter, Mowrah Butter and other “luxury” butters… at 5% you WILL notice the difference in the bar, it keeps the cost per bar still resaleable, and gives you a GREAT ‘adjustable’ formula to tailor for you own formula creation.

Just be sure to run any oil changes thru your lye calculator.

You can find all the supplies you need to make your own batch of Cold Process soap at Southern Soapers.

Below is a table showing the multiplier factor to use when determining how much water to use with the know value of lye required to saponify your base oils the lye discount you have previously calculated for.
Lye x 1.0 = 50% (This is the physical limit, but not recommended)
Lye x 1.15 = 46.5%
Lye x 1.2 = 45.45%
Lye x 1.25 = 44.44%
Lye x 1.3 = 43%
Lye x 1.4 = 41.66%
Lye x 1.5 = 40%
Lye x 1.6 = 38%
Lye x 1.7 = 37%
Lye x 1.75 = 36%
Lye x 1.8 = 35.7%
Lye x 1.9 = 34.5%
Lye x 2 = 33%
Lye x 2.1 = 32%
Lye x 2.3 = 30%

It is really hard to believe, but January is ending tomorrow. It was an amazing roller coaster ride this month. We raced just to keep up, it was the busiest month we have ever experienced.

We moved to a large commercial warehouse in November, and only partially unpacked as we were hit with the holiday rush while still finalizing the move. It was crazy, and it took amazing orchestration to have ourselves literally in boxes and yet still keep all stock reachable for steady and speedy order turnaround. We brought in extra help, straddled two warehouses for 4 weeks, and finally consolidated both the computer systems and inventory mid December. During the short holiday break we finally got boxes parked in the locations we knew they would need to be in and continued to fulfill in that manner while we finalized some construction projects.

Even this month of January has us still in a bit of disarray. The cosmetics fulfillment area is organized and a joy to work in. The fragrance drums are now housed in their own separate room within the warehouse with a pouring workspace nearby. We still have not finalized the configuration of that area, and will likely spend his last January weekend doing that as we also have to take an amber glass inventory for restock purposes also.  The cold process soapmaking & soap teaching area are not yet completed. The triple stainless steel sink was installed on thursday, but the crew could not finish off the repairs to the dryway as it has been too cold for the spackle to dry enough for sanding, smoothing, and repainting. When that project is completed an electric range comes in and has a separate electrical line run for its usage. One those two key appliances are fully settled, then we can set up the work surfaces for soap making and soap instruction. We are still debating whether to go with commercial food prep tables (stainless steel) or have wood/formica cabinets brought in. I am leaning toward the stainless steel tables as they will have more versitle functionality long term.  Even if they are more expensive up front, I can move and reconfigure the work area if I opt for those.  I am going to hunt for used ones first though.

Finally, once the soap making area is completed, we can actually hold classes there!
I almost forgot. The website for the Soapalooza! Soap Arts Studio is under construction also! The idea there is to have a class calender and a store checkout to facilitate sign up for classes. We have the interior of the store set up. But the shelves are still bare as Old Mother Hubbard. There are a few projects for the interior scheduled for Feb also, so we took what little stock was in the store and put it back in the warehouse. We are having some craft work tables and counters set up, and once that mess (and you know there will be one!) is cleaned up we will start putting stock to support Melt & Pour soap arts in the front retail store.

Southern Soapers customers living in the Hampton, VA area can always swing by Soapalooza! to pick up their SouthernSoapers.com order that has been previously submitted. We just ask you allow us up to 48 hours to pack it after placing the order, sometimes we will have it ready earlier also and will email you.

Testing before selling is extremely important. It takes several months to
understand the soapmaking process so that you can troubleshoot your own
batches. Remember folks, as much as you might be looking for a quick buck by
selling handmade soap, there are others out there looking for a quick buck
by suing anyone that they can get away with it also.

Three key rules before Selling your handmade soap:

1. Test Test Test
2. Have business/product liablity insurance
3. Test Test Test

Seriously..

I finally got brave and am publishing a poem I wrote quite a few years ago. I guess I was just a little bit self conscious.

Venus De Milo

You shall see me
in the scattered shards
of old Roman ruins
an unkempt gown,
bedraggled, bestript
of garnishing facade.

A timeless beauty
ageless and patrician
bare,
my soul lies clarified
by the now absent gaze
of the
pantheon of Gods.

Impiously poised
I shall remain,
luminous and constant
sanctuary,
for the lover within
my voluptuous
embrace.

Kelly Bloom (nee Nyswonger) written 1993

© 1993 Kelly Bloom. May not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.

“No self respecting woman should wish or work for the success of a party that ignores her self. Susan B. Anthony, 1872”

There is an email circulating titled “Why Women Should Vote“.. it is a great email reminding us that it has only been since Aug 26, 1920 (my eldest daughter was born on Aug 26 also!) that women have had the right to vote. I am not going to post that email in this post, as many people will have or soon will receive it.

What I am posting is links to the Library of Congress American Memory on how the American Woman Received Her Right To Vote, and how hard fought it was to obtain:

Complete Essay
This is a 12 page essay, showing many of the same photos that are also in the email circulating, but commands more literary finesse.  In an election year it is always very important to understand that our right to vote is a right to not take lightly, and to protect those rights by excercising them. There is also a great timeline to review, with additional links:

Timeline of US Women’s Suffrage Movement 1

Timeline of US Women’s Suffrage Movement 2

If you are an American woman, than it is vital to refesh yourself with what our grandmothers and great grandmothers fought for!

There is a great movie called “Iron Jawed Angels” by HBO. You can rent it cheaply at any Blockbuster, NetFlicks, etc. I highly recommend it. Which ever way you vote, just be sure that you do,

Kelly Bloom
Southern Soapers Fragrances ~ “We Have No Common Scents!”
http://www.southernsoapers.com/

It is that time again. Fall, the time when the kids head back to school and you have time to focus on upcoming Fall & Winter Product lines. We have a small project that is perfect for you and your child to make the cutest Let the Snow Begin Soaps. This soap uses the Wilton Silicone Snowflake mold and makes six 3 oz to 4 oz snowflake soaps. Instructions are below:

Step 1. Melt approximately 2 oz white soap base gently in the microwave. If using PJ’s injection tool, you will need the soap to be thin. If you do not have an injection tool, you can still do this but you will need to let your melted soap cool to a thick, viscious consistency. Use either the injection  tool to fill the tiny snowflake lines, or use the back of a spoon to squeege in the thick melted soap base. Save any unused white M&P, we will use it again later for the top layer of this soap.

Step 2. Using the back of a spoon, gently scrape away the excess soap from the snowflake lines, pressing down gently as you scrape. You do not want to pull up the soap filled lines, so pressing down helps. I recommend filling one snowflakes lines, then immediately start clearing the excess before the soap gets too firmly set up. It is easier to scrape the excess without damaging the snowflake lines while the excess soap is still pliable.

Step 3. Now you have your silicone mold with filled in snowflake lines and cleared of the excess soap from the outlying silicone areas. Wait until your white snowflake lines are firm, about 30 mins. Now melt approximately 12 oz clear M&P soap base. We tinted red ours red using a Red Lake and some Burgundy oxide dissolved with alcohol and then added to the soap base. This prevents pigment lumps. Alternatively, you can use liquid gel colorants. Fragrance your red tinted clear Melt & Pour soap base and then let it cool until pourable, but cooled to a thicker state. We do not want to cause the heat from the red tinted M&P to melt the delicate Snowflake lines.

Step 4. Spritz the surface of your white Snowflake lines with alcohol. This will allow the next pour of M&P soap, the red tinted clear, to adhere well. Gently divide the red tinted clear M&P soap base amoung the 6 snowflake mold cavities. Wait 1 to 2 hours for the red tinted M&P to firm up. My son and I were in a hurry and we should have waited another 15 mins.

Step 5. Now melt some additional white M&P soap base with the left overs you have from making the snowflake lines. You will need about 10 oz of white M&P. Fragrance this portion of white M&P base. Using your sprayer with alcohol, spritz the red tinted M&P soap surfaces of the 6 snowflake molds. Now, divide the white M&P soap base evenly amoung the six molds. Let sit and firm up for 1 to 2 hours.

Step 6. Gently pull the silicone mold away from the firm soaps, removing the soaps as you do so.

This was a fun project for my son and I. We will be doing some more using white & blue theme, as well as white and christmas green themes.

ProgramSouthern Soapers Fragrances will reimburse 25% of your new or renewing Handcrafted Soap Makers Guild membership dues. Alternatively, we will reimburse 20% of your new or renewing Indie Beauty Network membership dues. Simply forward us a copy of your welcome or renewal letter to Kelly @ SouthernSoapers . com (remove gaps)